I source our main leather from the iconic Horween Tannery in Chicago, IL. Founded in 1905, for more than 100 years and five generations their goal has been to make the world's best leather. Horween uses several tanning processes to produce a variety of leather options. Each option offers a different look or feel. I make all my bags and gear with Chromexcel, Dublin and Cavalier leathers; matching the product design with the perfect Horween leather for the best performance and elegance.
Horween describes Chromexcel as, “The original pull-up leather; using time honored techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ago. Chromexcel is still produced in the United States using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with our secret blend of natural oils and greases. Chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull-up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. Made to this day with old world craftsmanship, modern Chromexcel carries on a long history of superior comfort and durability.”
Horween describes their Dublin leathers as “rustic and worn. Dublin is tanned using our Cordovan vegetable tanning liquor formulas which are over 100 years old. Within the tanning process, the leather incorporates a richer blend of oils and waxes than traditional vegetable tanned leathers, which results in a leather that will age beautifully. In our finishing department, the Dublin leather is infused with a rich blend of natural waxes and then ironed to create a smooth surface with a rich tonal appearance that showcases the natural grain.”
Cavalier leather is almost identical to Chromexcel, the primary difference being it is a bit less oily. Horween makes slight adjustments to the tannage process which allows the Cavalier leathers to have brighter colors. The leather is chrome tanned with a heavy vegetable re-tannage process. Cavalier is hot stuffed to impregnate the oils and waxes into the leather to provide a rich look and strong pull-up.