I source our main leather from the iconic Horween Tannery in Chicago, IL. Founded in 1905, for more than 100 years and five generations their goal has been to make the world's best leather. From their own words, “making the best means doing lots of little things right. It means never mistaking fastest or cheapest with the best. It means always using formulas that do not cut corners, and choosing components strictly for their quality.” I chose Horween because their standards match my Rindleshire standard of giving you the very best product.
Horween uses several tanning processes to produce a variety of leather options. Each option offers a different look or feel. I make all my bags and gear with Chromexcel, Dublin and Cavalier leathers; matching the product design with the perfect Horween leather for the best performance and elegance.
CHROMEXCEL: Horween describes Chromexcel as, “The original pull-up leather; using time honored techniques and formulas that were developed nearly 100 years ago. Chromexcel is still produced in the United States using a bark retannage from a proprietary recipe, and then genuine hot stuffed with our secret blend of natural oils and greases. Chromexcel is characterized by a rich pull-up in full aniline, hand rubbed finishes. Made to this day with old world craftsmanship, modern Chromexcel carries on a long history of superior comfort and durability.”
DUBLIN: Horween describes their Dublin leathers as “rustic and worn. Dublin is tanned using our Cordovan vegetable tanning liquor formulas which are over 100 years old. Within the tanning process, the leather incorporates a richer blend of oils and waxes than traditional vegetable tanned leathers, which results in a leather that will age beautifully. In our finishing department, the Dublin leather is infused with a rich blend of natural waxes and then ironed to create a smooth surface with a rich tonal appearance that showcases the natural grain.”
CAVALIER: Cavalier leather is almost identical to Chromexcel, the primary difference being it is a bit less oily. Horween makes slight adjustments to the tannage process which allows the Cavalier leathers to have brighter colors. The leather is chrome tanned with a heavy vegetable re-tannage process. Cavalier is hot stuffed to impregnate the oils and waxes into the leather to provide a rich look and strong pull-up.
WHAT IS PULL-UP? Each of the leathers has a “pull-up,” which means that when the leather is folded or manipulated the oils inside the leather move around giving it a tonal effect on the surface of the leather. It can be buffed out to a near original look, but over time, it will patina to your moves and use - making your bag or gear unique to you. Pull-up is what gives the leathers the marbled look.
I love color - and it is hard to choose just one. So I have selected 10 leather colors. Each are pictured above in natural light straight from my studio or outside as well as images from my Distributor, BuckleGuy. I hope this helps you get a sense of what the colors will look like in your day to day life. Remember that computer screens and filters can change the colors from a website to “real life.” Also, leather colors are natural and inconsistent in nature. The pull up on the leathers described above can also alter the appearance of the color, especially in various lighting. All the colors are beautiful and will age to an amazing patina. You can’t go wrong with any of these colors!